— Rayann, how did you end up in the polar world?
— Completely by chance. I used to be a civil engineer and consultant, working on engineering projects, and living in the Netherlands. Then I moved to Saint Petersburg for a couple of years — and from there, I planned a short vacation to the North. I just wanted to see the Northern Lights. That was in Sapmi (Finnish Lapland), near Inari. All I wanted at the time was a beautiful sky.
But after that trip… I couldn’t stop. I went again. And again. The North drew me in. In 2015, I travelled to Svalbard as a tourist to see the solar solar eclipse. And three years later, I booked a cabin on a polar cruise — just as a regular guest. That was the turning point.
— Why?
— I really fell in love with Svalbard. I wanted to keep coming back year after year, taking pictures of the polar bears, foxes, and birds. I wanted to experience these deeply unique moments in the Arctic. Since travelling to the Arctic each year is expensive, I figured that the best way to keep experiencing it is to just work there. So, I went through extensive training, got certifications, and found my first job on board a ship. First as a photography guide — and then I became more involved in expedition logistics. Now, I am the expedition leader. And I feel I have found my place.

— What are your main responsibilities?
— Everything that has to do with the program and the guests’ experiences. I’m responsible for route planning, landings, checking ice and weather forecasts, working with the captain, managing the expedition team, and ensuring guest safety. I wake up early — sometimes at 5:30 a.m. — to scout out landing zones. Especially when there is a chance of spotting a polar bear.
— So your team goes ashore first?
— Always. We cannot allow guests to unexpectedly come face-to-face with a bear. We scan the coastline with binoculars, look for tracks, survey the area. If there is any risk at all, we cancel the landing or find another location. Our job is to protect both the people and the bear.
— That sounds intense.
— It is. But that’s the beauty of it. My job is like being an orchestra conductor. Everything needs to be in harmony: the plan, the team, timing, mood, weather, ice conditions. You’re always thinking ahead, but always immersed in nature.

— What qualities would you like to see in your team members?
— First and foremost, we look for people who are reliable in unpredictable situations. Out here, we need calm minds, quick reactions, and good judgment. It’s also important that they’re respectful: of the environment, the wildlife, and our guests. Experience and knowledge help, of course, but attitude matters just as much. You have to genuinely enjoy working as a team, sharing knowledge, and staying flexible, because plans change constantly. We want people who can handle pressure without ego and who understand that we’re here to observe nature, not control it.

— Rayann, most guests see only the smooth execution — landings, lectures, excursions. What does you day look like? What happens behind the curtain?
— A lot. It’s like a concert  — and I’m both backstage and conducting. Every day starts with a deep weather and ice review. I speak with the captain early in the morning, we check forecasts, ice concentration charts, fog reports, swell conditions. Based on that, we plan: where we will go, if we can land, what we will do if things change.
— Do they often change?
— Constantly. This is the Arctic — nothing is guaranteed. Maybe the forecast looked great last night, but by 6 a.m., there’s thick fog in the fjord. Or the ice has shifted overnight and blocked a landing site. You need two or three backup plans at all times. Adaptability is not a bonus — it’s essential.
— How do you know which sites are available?
— There is a booking and scheduling system made available by AECO (Association of Arctic Expedition Cruise Operators). Most ships in Svalbard are members of AECO and therefore have to use it. We apply for our desired landing sites months in advance — like booking time slots. But if the weather forces us to abandon a site, we need to act fast and see what else is available — without conflicting with other vessels.
— It sounds stressful.
— It is. But it’s also satisfying. When it works — when you pull off a perfect day despite changing ice or wind — it’s magic. And the guests don’t know how close we were to calling it off. That’s the goal: make it seamless for them, no matter how chaotic it is behind the scenes.

— What is your favorite experience in the Arctic?
— It is the pack ice. It’s the most unpredictable, raw, and remote environment we can access. It’s never the same. Sometimes it’s dense and majestic, stretching as far as the eye can see. Sometimes it’s thin and fragmented, like a broken mirror. And we just drift through it, silently.
— What is it like?
— Magical. The engine stops, the ship drifts, and all you hear is the soft crackling of the ice. It is meditative. You might see a seal. A bear. Or nothing at all. But you always feel something. I think many people come to the Arctic expecting wildlife. But what actually changes them is the silence.
— Do you have a favorite island?
— I used to dream of landing on Kvitøya — the White Island, the easternmost point of Svalbard. It’s remote, often inaccessible due to ice. I have been there several times, without landing because of polar bears on the beach. And now it's off-limits — new regulations prohibit landings there to protect the environment. So it remains… a dream. A white spot on my personal map of Svalbard.
— Any favorite places you do visit?
— Many. I love Alkefjellet, the bird cliff. It’s alive with tens of thousands of birds, noise, motion. I love the northernmost archipelago within Svalbard called the Seven Islands, and of course seeing massive glaciers everywhere is fascinating. But more than anything, I love the uncertainty — when I don’t know what the day will bring, and then nature surprises us all.

— Rayann, you've worked in both poles. How would you describe the difference between Antarctica and the Arctic?
— From the point of view of being a guide or Expedition Leader, it is night and day. In a certain way, Antarctica is more predictable at least when it comes to wildlife. You’re almost guaranteed to see penguins, seals, whales — wildlife is abundant and easy to spot. It’s photogenic, cinematic. It delivers what people imagine when they think “polar expedition”.
But the Arctic makes you work for finding wildlife really hard. It’s more like a visual treasure hunt. You’re scanning the shoreline for movement. You’re searching. Hoping. And when you do spot something — a bear in the distance, a seal slipping between ice floes or a fox snatching an egg from a bird nest — it feels like you earned it. There’s emotion in that. You remember it.
— So in Antarctica you may expect to see more animal life, in the Arctic – more stunning landscapes?
— When it comes to wildlife, yes, you can expect more in Antarctica. People who have travelled to Antarctica first often arrive in the Arctic expecting the same concentration of wildlife but the Arctic is slow, subtle, quiet. It teaches you to pay attention. To stop performing and start observing. When it comes to landscapes, the north and south are so incredibly different that I wouldn’t dare to compare them.
— If you had to choose only one – north or south pole – what would it be?
— Svalbard. No hesitation. I love Antarctica — I really do, and I can’t wait to return there for the next season. But Svalbard… I feel like I belong here. The landscapes, the light, the silence. Maybe it is because I feel more connected in a way, because this is the first place that I visited and truly got to know in depth.

— What's your life like between expeditions?
— Unusual (laughs). I live in Ohcejohka (Utsjoki) the northernmost village in Finland, not far from the Arctic Ocean. My nearest neighbor is kilometers away. It’s quiet, completely surrounded by nature. That’s where I rest, recharge, reconnect with silence.
— And what’s your yearly rhythm?
— I work about 2-3 months in the Arctic in northern spring and summer. Then I rest for a month or two. In late northern autumn (spring in the south), I head to Antarctica, where I spend another 2 to 3 months on board. Then I take a couple of months off again until the next Arctic season, usually at home in the north. I read, hike, reflect, prepare.
— Sounds like an unusual balance between extremes.
— It is. On the ship, it’s non-stop: decisions, people, movement, risk assessment. At home, it’s the opposite: silence, stillness, space. But I need both. Two sides of my life complete each other. Without the calm, I wouldn’t survive the chaos. And without the chaos — I wouldn’t appreciate the calm.
— Would you like to spend a full year in the Arctic?
— That’s a dream of mine! Maybe in Svalbard, to experience the total darkness. I’d love to see the seasons turn, to feel the long polar night, the slow return of light. People think the Arctic is empty — but it’s full of tiny changes. You just need time to see them.

— Rayann, what advice would you give someone preparing for their first Arctic expedition?
— I’d divide it into two parts: physical preparation and mental preparation.
Physically, the key is the right gear. Most people do okay with jackets — the parka we give them is great — but the most common mistake is not bringing proper waterproof pants. That’s the one item people forget or underestimate.
You need:

• A waterproof outer layer — especially pants
• A warm hat, gloves, and neck protection
• Thermal base layers, preferably wool
• Wool socks
• Sunglasses and sunscreen — yes, even here, especially here!
• And: a good camera and binoculars. You’ll regret not having them if the moment comes. Of course, we give binoculars to all guests, but you can also bring your own.

— And how to get mentally ready?
— Drop all expectations. Don't come here thinking you’ll see a polar bear or a glacier at sunrise. Nature doesn’t work on your schedule. If you expect too much, you might miss what’s right in front of you.
Instead, come with an open mind. Be curious. Let the Arctic reveal itself to you. That’s when the magic happens.
— Any reading or viewing suggestions?
— Yes. I particularly love "The Frozen Planet" documentary by the BBC, narrated by David Attenborough. It’s beautiful, informative, and moving. But remember — real wildlife doesn’t come that close as it is shown in this film with extremely advanced (and expensive!) camera equipment. It takes time. Patience. Luck. If you want to really feel something: watch the film, come to the Arctic, and stand on the bow in silence. That’s when it all connects.

The moment from our recent trip

— You’ve seen so much. Is there one moment that stands above the rest?
— Yes, and we experienced it together. It was during our day in the pack ice. A polar bear appeared in the distance. We stopped the ship — just drifting. Complete silence. We watched the bear — quietly, respectfully — as it feeded on the remains of a seal, certainly a recent kill. It started to feed. Slowly. Carefully. No noise. No rush. We didn’t move the ship. We just watched from a distance, with binoculars. And then — after a while — it stopped eating, looked up into the distance… and walked away. Not because we were there. Not because we disturbed it. But because it caught another scent, he went to find a seal. He had his own reasons.
— What did you feel in that moment?
— That we had done it right. That we had been present, but not intrusive. That we had witnessed something natural, without altering it. That is rare. That is the dream. That’s why I do this.
— Was everyone on board aware of the significance?
— I think so. There was this reverent silence. Nobody ran or overreacted. Nobody screamed “bear!” People just… watched. And when the bear walked away, it felt like we’d shared something sacred. It was a confirmation. That humility is the only way to be in the Arctic. That we are not the centre. That we’re the guests. And if we’re lucky — really lucky — the Arctic lets us see a little bit of its soul.