Natalia Kardash
Chile and Peru -
a Journey to the Edge of the World
a Journey to the Edge of the World
Exploration Voyage with Swan Hellenic from Valparaiso to Lima
30 March - 8 April 2026
30 March - 8 April 2026
This is our plan:
we boarded SH Vega in Chile and the ship went all the way along the shores of two countries.
we boarded SH Vega in Chile and the ship went all the way along the shores of two countries.
I am travelling to Chile and Peru on an expedition cruise with Swan Hellenic – a company that focuses on thoughtful travel, not mass tourism. On board, there are scientists, experts, and people who want to understand the world, not just look at it.
For me, this is not just a holiday. It is part of a long personal journey – to see with my own eyes the places I once imagined while reading books.
When I was a child, I read all books of Jules Verne, and "Les Enfants du capitaine Grant" was my favorite. (Its English title "In Search of the Castaways" does not say anything to a Russian-speaking person - in our language it is also titles as in the original - Children of Captain Grant.)
From this book I remember the details and landscapes of Andes, Verne's imagination was so well described that it seems to me that I have been there myself. I also watched many movies. And now, finally, I am going to see these two wonderful countries - Chile and Peru. This is my first visit to South America.
I'll happily describe for you what I'll see and publish reportage with photos and discoveries on this page. Stay connected.
For me, this is not just a holiday. It is part of a long personal journey – to see with my own eyes the places I once imagined while reading books.
When I was a child, I read all books of Jules Verne, and "Les Enfants du capitaine Grant" was my favorite. (Its English title "In Search of the Castaways" does not say anything to a Russian-speaking person - in our language it is also titles as in the original - Children of Captain Grant.)
From this book I remember the details and landscapes of Andes, Verne's imagination was so well described that it seems to me that I have been there myself. I also watched many movies. And now, finally, I am going to see these two wonderful countries - Chile and Peru. This is my first visit to South America.
I'll happily describe for you what I'll see and publish reportage with photos and discoveries on this page. Stay connected.
1
Overview of the Cruise
SH VEGA of Swan Hellenic takes its passengers from the vibrant city of Valparaíso, Chile, and this cruise will be concluded in Callao, Lima. This voyage takes us along the stunning coasts of South America, allowing to explore rich cultural diversity and breathtaking landscapes of the region. We have an opportunity to visit several locations such as Coquimbo with its ancient petroglyphs, the historic city of Antofagasta, the remarkable Paracas Peninsula, where we may see the mysterious Nazca Lines.
Another exciting fact (for me it is an important addition) Swan Hellenic is a partner of the SETI Institute. This is a space and earth science research organisation that supports NASA, NSF (National Science Foundation), private industry and academia in answering some of humanity’s most profound questions. In this trip scientists share expert insights into the history and latest discoveries in astronomy, astrophysics, astrobiology and planetary science.
Another exciting fact (for me it is an important addition) Swan Hellenic is a partner of the SETI Institute. This is a space and earth science research organisation that supports NASA, NSF (National Science Foundation), private industry and academia in answering some of humanity’s most profound questions. In this trip scientists share expert insights into the history and latest discoveries in astronomy, astrophysics, astrobiology and planetary science.
“The scenery was magnificent; the mountains were grand beyond description.”
Charles Darwin,
from his travel writings (Voyage of the Beagle, 1839), describing Chilean landscapes.
from his travel writings (Voyage of the Beagle, 1839), describing Chilean landscapes.
1839
2
Larnaca to Santiago,
Lima to Larnaca
Lima to Larnaca
Chile is far from Cyprus where I live. But the trip to Santiago was not as complicated as it may seem.
On my way to the South America I had to fly from Larnaca to Athens, then in a couple of hours – to Madrid. From there – a direct flight to Santiago. After a city tour – a short drive to Valparaíso, the port of departure.
The cruise ship will take us from Chile to Lima in Peru. From there I'll have a flight back to Europe. In Madrid I'll stay for a day to rest and go around the city centre. Then – a short flight to Athens, and the shortest of all – a flight from Athens to Cyprus.
It sounds long. But in reality, it is very manageable. The key is simple: one step at a time.
On my way to the South America I had to fly from Larnaca to Athens, then in a couple of hours – to Madrid. From there – a direct flight to Santiago. After a city tour – a short drive to Valparaíso, the port of departure.
The cruise ship will take us from Chile to Lima in Peru. From there I'll have a flight back to Europe. In Madrid I'll stay for a day to rest and go around the city centre. Then – a short flight to Athens, and the shortest of all – a flight from Athens to Cyprus.
It sounds long. But in reality, it is very manageable. The key is simple: one step at a time.
3
Madrid airport – a small adventure
Madrid airport deserves a separate mention. It is huge. Really huge.
I walked for a very long time from arrival to baggage claim, went out to the main airport hall and - in search for the departure area I walked quite a lot. When I finally found a row of TV screens showing departures, I did not find my flight there.
I took a deep breath, calmed myself down. OK. It might be a wrong terminal. Look again. I carefully looked through all the lines, all Terminals (1, 2, 3). The flight was not there.
I walked for a very long time from arrival to baggage claim, went out to the main airport hall and - in search for the departure area I walked quite a lot. When I finally found a row of TV screens showing departures, I did not find my flight there.
I took a deep breath, calmed myself down. OK. It might be a wrong terminal. Look again. I carefully looked through all the lines, all Terminals (1, 2, 3). The flight was not there.
I started to panic. What if I missed something, made a mistake? What if I arrived from Athens to one airport, and my next flight would depart from another one, somewhere on the other side of the city?
While I was looking for my tickets, comparing airports, I got quite nervous. But no – luckily, it was the same airport. Then where was my flight? Why was it not on the TV screens? Not in Terminal 1, not in Terminal 2, not in Terminal 3.
My ticket said Terminal 4S, but there were no signs for it anywhere. Luckily, I met a police officer who spoke English. We checked my ticket together and he explained how to find this terminal - "walk, take a lift, walk, take an escalator, go outside, take a bus"... (If you fly through Madrid in transit, allow more time than you think you need. I am glad I had four hours!)
—
I finally reached Terminal 4 and checked in my luggage. And – surprise – that was not the end! Now I had to take a train to a separate building. About 200 metres across the hall, then a long and slow descent on escalators down four levels, then wait for the train, five minutes on the train, and again escalators – another five minutes to reach the entrance of this satellite terminal. It is called T4S.
In the end everything worked perfectly. Now I know what to do on my way back - just mirror my journey through all these terminals.
Reading about my little adventure, my friend Anna, who travels a lot, said she might prepare a guide on various airports. I hope she'll do it, I'll be its first reader. It might be so useful!
While I was looking for my tickets, comparing airports, I got quite nervous. But no – luckily, it was the same airport. Then where was my flight? Why was it not on the TV screens? Not in Terminal 1, not in Terminal 2, not in Terminal 3.
My ticket said Terminal 4S, but there were no signs for it anywhere. Luckily, I met a police officer who spoke English. We checked my ticket together and he explained how to find this terminal - "walk, take a lift, walk, take an escalator, go outside, take a bus"... (If you fly through Madrid in transit, allow more time than you think you need. I am glad I had four hours!)
—
I finally reached Terminal 4 and checked in my luggage. And – surprise – that was not the end! Now I had to take a train to a separate building. About 200 metres across the hall, then a long and slow descent on escalators down four levels, then wait for the train, five minutes on the train, and again escalators – another five minutes to reach the entrance of this satellite terminal. It is called T4S.
In the end everything worked perfectly. Now I know what to do on my way back - just mirror my journey through all these terminals.
Reading about my little adventure, my friend Anna, who travels a lot, said she might prepare a guide on various airports. I hope she'll do it, I'll be its first reader. It might be so useful!
4
Arrival in Santiago
– first impressions
– first impressions
We arrived in Santiago early in the morning. A private guide met us at the airport, and we immediately started exploring the city by car. We only had a few hours, so this was the best decision - driving around we could see a lot, talking to a native we could learn about the life of people here, about their history and culture.
Santiago is a city of contrasts. Wide, clean, very green streets and parks in the modern districts. Classical buildings, government quarters, and the presidential palace in the historical centre. Small very old houses in the poor districts.
The city, whose name means “Saint James”, was founded here in 1541 by Pedro de Valdivia. From this point, it slowly grew into one of the largest cities in South America, with more than 7 million people.
The climate here is very familiar for those who live in Cyprus – dry and hot summers, mild winters.
But the setting is completely different.
The Andes mountains rise above the city. In winter they are fully covered with snow. Now, after summer, only the glaciers remain on the peaks.
This mountain chain separates Chile from Argentina. You may have heard the word “Cordillera” – here it becomes real.
The climate here is very familiar for those who live in Cyprus – dry and hot summers, mild winters.
But the setting is completely different.
The Andes mountains rise above the city. In winter they are fully covered with snow. Now, after summer, only the glaciers remain on the peaks.
This mountain chain separates Chile from Argentina. You may have heard the word “Cordillera” – here it becomes real.
“Nothing can be compared with the majestic grandeur of the Cordilleras.”
Jules Verne,
in the book "In Search of the Castaways"
(Les Enfants du Capitaine Grant)
in the book "In Search of the Castaways"
(Les Enfants du Capitaine Grant)
1868
Cerro Santa Lucía is not just a park. This is the exact place where Santiago began.
In the 19th century, the hill was transformed into a landscaped park: terraces, staircases and decorative structures were added, giving it a very European feel.
The most visible building is Castillo Hidalgo. We immediately fell in love with it!
In the 19th century, the hill was transformed into a landscaped park: terraces, staircases and decorative structures were added, giving it a very European feel.
The most visible building is Castillo Hidalgo. We immediately fell in love with it!
It was built in 1816 as a fortress. Later it was used as a warehouse and administrative building. Today it is a venue for events, with one of the best views over the city.
We also visited a tower on the top of this hill. Originally, it was part of the defensive system, from here the whole ten town (now big city) is visible. The view is perfect - you can see Santiago from above.
We also visited a tower on the top of this hill. Originally, it was part of the defensive system, from here the whole ten town (now big city) is visible. The view is perfect - you can see Santiago from above.
5
Valparaiso: street art and colours
The biggest port of Chile is known by its murals. We walked a lot and enjoyed the street art of Miraflores area.
Iquique and its Industrial Revolution
From the dunes above Iquique, the city looks like a thin strip of buildings pinned between the Pacific and the desert.
Iquique is a city that stretches in a narrow line between the Pacific Ocean and the desert heights. It can not grow more, so a sattelite town Alto Hospicio that was before an industrial part of Iquique developed its own residential area. Today the city itself has more than 200,000 residents, while neighbouring Alto Hospicio - about 150,000.
On the photo you see Cerro Dragón, a vast dune rising above the city. It is known not only as a natural landmark, but also a perfect place for sandboarding and paragliding.
On the photo you see Cerro Dragón, a vast dune rising above the city. It is known not only as a natural landmark, but also a perfect place for sandboarding and paragliding.
Humberstone - a ghost town in the Atacama Desert
Today you see here empty streets, restored houses, a theatre, a school, a church, a swimming pool, even a company store – everything is transformed into a museum. Humberstone and nearby Santa Laura were part of a network of more than 200 former saltpetre mines, where people lived and worked in one of the harshest landscapes on earth.
Its story began in the 1870s, when the nitrate boom transformed the desert into a place of global importance. It became part of the saltpetre economy that supplied sodium nitrate to world agriculture and industry from the 1870s to the 1950s. This place is about 45 kilometres from Iquique, and the port city was its connection to the world. The saltpetre was often called “white gold” – a product so valuable that it shaped the economy of the whole north region of Chile.
Its story began in the 1870s, when the nitrate boom transformed the desert into a place of global importance. It became part of the saltpetre economy that supplied sodium nitrate to world agriculture and industry from the 1870s to the 1950s. This place is about 45 kilometres from Iquique, and the port city was its connection to the world. The saltpetre was often called “white gold” – a product so valuable that it shaped the economy of the whole north region of Chile.
