My journey began in Larnaca and it will take me through some of the most breathtaking and remote parts of the northern hemisphere. I’ll take you with me — step by step — as I move from city streets to icy fjords and polar silence.
My route starts with a flight from Larnaca to Oslo, where I’ll spend four days discovering Norway’s vibrant capital — a city where Scandinavian design meets Viking heritage, and fjords are just a tram ride away.
From Oslo, I’ll head even further north to Tromsø, the so-called gateway to the Arctic. I’ll have just one day to explore this Arctic city — enough time to catch a breath before setting sail on the true highlight of the trip: an expedition cruise with Swan Hellenic.
For ten days, we will journey deep into the polar region on a ship designed for exploration and comfort. The cruise, titled Roundtrip cruise to the edge of the Arctic, circles around Spitsbergen, the largest island of the Svalbard archipelago. We’ll navigate ice-filled waters, pass glaciers and dramatic cliffs, and — if we’re lucky — encounter walruses, Arctic foxes, and even polar bears. Each day promises landings, lectures, and scenes that feel almost unreal.
On the way home, the journey doesn’t end abruptly. After returning to Tromsø, I’ll fly to Copenhagen for one final Nordic morning walk before making my way back to Cyprus — with memories from the edge of the map.
This journal is not just about destinations — it’s about moments of wonder, stillness, and discovery. I hope you’ll join me in reliving this unforgettable experience.

When I told people I was joining an Arctic expedition cruise, the reaction was almost always the same – “Ah, going to see the polar bears?” But it’s not that simple.

In reality, seeing a polar bear in the wild is a rare privilege – and one that comes with strict rules. Cruise ships in Svalbard must now follow carefully regulated guidelines to protect both the bears and their fragile habitat. Tourists are not allowed to approach closer than 300 metres to a polar bear. That’s right – 300 metres is the minimum distance, and if a bear comes any closer, it’s the people who must move.
Each group that sets foot on shore is escorted by armed guides – for safety. These guides are trained to keep both humans and bears out of trouble, sometimes firing flares if a bear wanders too close.
And here’s a fact that surprised me: polar bears are excellent swimmers – they can cover over 100 kilometres without stopping. So even if you’re on a remote island, you’re still in their territory. It’s a wild, unpredictable Arctic world – and we’re just visitors.

Tromsø isn’t just a town – often it is called the Gateway to the Arctic. For centuries, it’s been the starting point for polar expeditions, and today, it’s a centre for the cruise industry, Arctic research and world-class seafood production.
Tromsø’s port welcomes expedition cruise ships that head deep into the icy Svalbard, Greenland, and even the North Pole. The city’s maritime culture is alive and thriving – not just with tourism, but with the historic and modern traditions of fish hunting, drying, and export. Cod and king crab from these cold waters are prized around the world, and Tromsø’s economy pulses with the rhythm of the sea.

I am travelling with my son Alex, and it is interesting to compare thoughts and impressions of two generations. We began our Arctic journey in Tromso, and naturally, started with Polaria. This modern building, shaped like ice floes pressed against the shore, offers interactive exhibits about sea ice, northern wildlife, and climate change. The bearded seals in the aquarium are captivating, but even more moving is the panoramic film that takes you over Svalbard’s glaciers and icy peaks – a breathtaking preview of what lies north.

Two fascinating facts about seals:
1. Seals can sleep underwater – and even while swimming.
Seals have the incredible ability to shut down parts of their brain while resting, allowing them to sleep underwater without drowning. Some species use a technique called unihemispheric slow-wave sleep, where one half of the brain sleeps while the other remains alert enough to surface for air or watch for predators.
2. Bearded seals sing complex songs under the ice.
In Arctic waters, male bearded seals produce melodic songs to attract mates – and their vocalisations can travel for tens of kilometres through the ice-covered sea. These underwater "concerts" are among the most sophisticated vocal displays in the animal kingdom, and can be heard through hydrophones by scientists studying polar ecosystems.

Then we visited the Blue Vision Expo, and were lucky to talk to an inspiring woman who told us about new fish growing technologies. It’s not just about fishing – it’s about protecting the ocean for generations to come.

1. Salmon start their life in fresh water – and finish in the sea.
Atlantic salmon are raised in freshwater hatcheries for the first 12–18 months of their life. Once they reach a certain stage (called smoltification), they are transferred to seawater pens where they continue to grow. This mirrors their natural life cycle and helps ensure healthy development.

2. Norway is the global leader in salmon farming – and Tromsø is one of its key innovation hubs.
Norway produces over 50% of the world’s farmed Atlantic salmon, and much of the industry’s technological development – including automated feeding systems, underwater sensors, and fish health monitoring – is driven by research centres based in and around Tromsø.

3. New technologies allow to record every day of fish life before it goes to the market.
From land-based closed-containment systems (which recycle 99% of water) to AI-powered feeding that reduces waste, the industry is shifting fast. Some farms use lasers to control the health of their fish and monitor their cages with dozens of underwater cameras in 24/7 regime.

This powerful display from the Polar Museum in Tromsø captures the raw, unforgiving reality of early Arctic life. Inside a hut, surrounded by furs, fish, and handmade tools, mannequins portray trappers and explorers who once braved the polar frontier with little more than resilience and instinct.
The man splitting wood is not preparing for comfort – he's preparing to survive. His companion sits in silence, wrapped in worn layers, with a distant look that speaks of months in solitude and darkness. Behind them, the spoils of the hunt hang drying: seal pelts, bird carcasses, and the skeletal remains of Arctic prey – every piece a testament to survival, not luxury.
This is not romanticised exploration – this is the truth of life in the polar north. No electricity. No safety. Just man, nature, and the vast silence of the Arctic.

We travelled from Larnaca to Oslo, then to Tromsø, with the aim to board "Diana" and spend 10 days exploring Arctic. Passengers come on the pre-cruise day, walk around Tromsø, stay overnight in the hotel arranged by Swan Hellenic. When we woke up, this was our view:

The SH Diana, part of Swan Hellenic’s expedition fleet, is ice-strengthened and fitted with a hybrid diesel-electric propulsion system. This way it implements zero-emission battery power for silent navigation in sensitive regions.

Equipped with a dedicated expedition lab, marine-life library, and Zodiac and kayak fleet, Diana also includes a multifunctional lecture theatre and “Citizen Science” initiatives, encouraging guests to actively participate in ongoing polar research.

Currently, we have 71 travellers on board and a team of 40-60 people (I think). I;ll take an interview from the captain on the last day of our trip and know more details. At the time being I collect information and enjoy the trip and personal communication with expedition team. It is impressive that waiters and other ship personel address passengers by name: within the first two days they managed to remember everyone.

Every day team members delivered lectures that gave us much information about the places we were visiting. It is an extreemely important element of an exploration journey. I'll try to share with you the most memorable facts I learned.

Once a coal mining settlement, today Ny-Ålesund is an international research station, hosting scientists from more than 10 countries year-round. Norway, Germany, France, the UK, Japan, South Korea, India, China, and others operate stations here, studying climate change, glaciology, atmosphere, ecosystems, and Arctic wildlife.
Because of its clean, undisturbed air, Ny-Ålesund is also a key site for atmospheric research and part of global climate observation networks. It’s a place where science meets silence — no cars, no distractions, just data, sky, and snow.

But Ny-Ålesund is not only about the future. It also holds a place in the bold past of polar exploration. In 1926, Italian explorer Umberto Nobile and Norwegian hero Roald Amundsen departed from here in the airship Norge — one of the first successful flights over the North Pole. The mast where the airship was moored still stands, weathered by time and wind — a quiet reminder of the age of heroic exploration.
Today, Ny-Ålesund remains a place few can visit — access is strictly limited to researchers and select guided visits.

One of the world’s northernmost settlements – full of surprises

1. The northernmost town on Earth with a civilian population
Longyearbyen sits at 78° North, making it the northernmost permanent settlement with its own school, church, supermarket, university, and airport. Life here continues through polar night and midnight sun, with full modern infrastructure — just a few hundred miles from the North Pole.

2. No one is allowed to be born or buried here
Due to permafrost, bodies never fully decompose, so burials are prohibited. Pregnant women are required to travel to mainland Norway before giving birth.

3. Home to more polar bears than people
There are more polar bears than residents in the Svalbard archipelago. While it’s rare to see them inside Longyearbyen, it’s legally required to carry a rifle if you leave the settlement, for safety. The bears roam freely in the surrounding wilderness.

4. A global seed vault is hidden in the mountains
Just outside the town lies the famous Svalbard Global Seed Vault, often called the “Doomsday Vault.” It stores backup copies of seeds from around the world — a safeguard for humanity in case of global disaster.